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Waiters race for glory as Paris revives century-old tradition

Some 200 aproned competitors took their places on the starting blocks Sunday for a tradition that goes back more than a hundred years: the Paris waiters' race. 

Waiters carry trays with a cup of coffee, a croissant and a glass of water as they take part in a race through the streets of Paris, on March 24, 2024.
Waiters carry trays with a cup of coffee, a croissant and a glass of water as they take part in a race through the streets of Paris, on March 24, 2024. © AP / Christophe Ena
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Intended to showcase waiters' talent with a tray, the 2km race saw contestants make their way from Paris city hall through the narrow streets of the Marais and back again – all while singlehandedly carrying a glass of water, a cup of coffee and a croissant. 

Samy Lamrous was the fastest male entrant, completing the course in 13 minutes and 30 seconds, while Pauline Van Wymeersch was the speediest woman with a time of 14 minutes and 12 seconds.

Time penalties were imposed for spills, with judges waiting at the finish line to assess the state of each participant's tray.

Running was not permitted. Instead waiters were expected to cover the course at a brisk walk – the maximum speed at which you'd expect to see one arrive at your table.

Carrying the tray with two hands resulted in automatic disqualification.

Paris revival

It's the first time since 2011 that the race has returned to Paris, the city where it was invented.

Historians have traced the first edition back to 1914, when it was conceived as a way to promote Parisian cafes and the skills of those who worked in them.

Waiters take part in a race on June 8, 1957, at Place de la Bastille in Paris.
Waiters take part in a race on June 8, 1957, at Place de la Bastille in Paris. © AFP

Previous participants had to cover as much as 10km past some of the city's most famous monuments, including a stretch down the Champs-Élysées.

The contents of the tray have also varied over the years, ranging from a full bottle of wine or spirits to a carafe of water and three glasses.

Originally known as the course des garçons de café (cafe waiters' race), the event gradually opened to waitresses in the 1960s.

It also took off across France and around the world, with waiters' races held as far away as Cameroon, Hong Kong, Australia, Guatemala and the United States.

A waiters' race in Mexico City on March 16, 2013.
A waiters' race in Mexico City on March 16, 2013. © AFP / YURI CORTEZ

In Paris, though, the race died out 13 years ago for lack of sponsorship. 

It's been revived this year by the city of Paris, hospitality industry groups and a handful of private partners, who rebranded it as the course des cafés (cafes race).

Sunday's races were mixed events, one for professional waiters and another for apprentices.

Competitors had to wear a white shirt, black trousers or skirt and an apron. While trainers were allowed, traditionalists were invited stick to dress shoes. 

The winners received medals, tickets for the Olympics opening ceremony and a night in a swanky hotel.

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